Working for My Dinner

Another travel day! Yay….

Well, before that…we decided to spend half the day in Sintra and leave for Lisbon in the afternoon so Meg could get some work done and I could check out the palace I skipped out on the day before. It was a short 10 min walk from the hostel we were staying at so I got up early for breakfast and headed out on my own. I got a map and started wandering the gardens. There were many things to see all over the place, but it was actually quite smaller than it seemed from the map and I wasn’t really following the paths I thought I was on so I put the map away and just walked, choosing this way and that. I eventually found myself at a fountain and this was my favourite part about my trip to the palace…not the fountain itself, but who I met there. He was quietly working away, sorting through pieces of marble, completely concentrated on the task at hand. Jorge, as I learned later, had been working on restoring the fountain facade for 7-8 months at this point, removing and cleaning pieces that had become covered in mold and were dislocating from the wall. I probably ended up watching him for what ended up being about 1/4 of the time I actually spent at the gardens and palace. He didn’t mind me capturing some photos of him and worked away quietly as I watched, explaining things here and there in his broken English. I love how much care and focus he clearly put into his job. Testing this piece and that to see how it would fit until he found the perfect one, and measuring and comparing the pattern to the opposite side to make sure everything was accurate. I finally left to explore the rest of the grounds, but that was definitely the highlight of my trip there.

Before heading back to the hostel to leave, I stopped in for a pastry, one of the ones Sintra is known for, at one of the many cafes. It was a rectangular flaky pastry filled with something delicious…couldn’t tell you what, but it was yummy! That basically ended up being my lunch and Megan and I left shortly after to begin the short trek to Lisbon.

After getting a little off course (as per usual), we finally made it to our Airbnb. It was a beautiful little place! Since Megan booked it and I didn’t see all the details, I didn’t even realize we had the entire place to ourselves! It wasn’t big at all, but so nice to have a quiet space to ourselves to relax in. The main floor had a little living room/kitchen/dining room combined as well as a bathroom, and the bedroom and a second bathroom were on the floor above, with a slanted ceiling and window right above the bed (which was incredibly comfortable I might add). After we got settled, the first thing on our to do list was finding food. Luckily, we didn’t have to wander far. We found something literally about 10 steps from our apartment and sat down. After perusing the menu and much debate with myself, I ordered the grilled sardines. Not that I like them or anything, but it seemed to be one of the things to get in Portugal and since I’m open to trying new things I figured I should go for it! After all, I wanted to try some authentic Portuguese food.

Our plates came out and I looked at my 4 little grilled fishes. Megan and I didn’t have much conversation that meal. It took all my concentration to eat my dinner. I felt like I was doing surgery to remove the meat from the fine bones and avoid eating the internal organs. It would take me forever to build up a little pile of fish before I could finally I could take a decent sized bite. I think that’s the most effort I have ever put into eating a meal. I can’t say I loved their intense salty, fishy taste, but it was an experience I’m glad I didn’t miss out on.

After picking up a few groceries at a nearby convenience store and letting our food digest at our temporary Lisbon home, I somehow came across a gelato place on TripAdvisor and I decided I deserved a sweet treat after all the energy I put into eating dinner (fair enough, right?). We were staying in the Alfama area, which was a bit of a maze, but luckily it was a straight shot to our destination. Amorino was the name of the cafe, and we quickly found out for ourselves why it had such great ratings. Not only was the gelato delicious, but you just paid for the size and could mix and match as many flavours as you wanted. That meant you could have every single flavour and they would divide your medium sized serving into 23 portions in a cup or cone! Megan and I both only chose 4 flavours and even that was amazing to watch them portion out. We walked back as we ate and that concluded our first night in Lisbon.

kez
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Meet Jorge…

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Dinner!

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That Portuguese Coast…

After spending the previous day in Cascais, this was the only other full day we would be in Sintra and I had heard there were some beautiful beaches and a town right on the cliffs. This, I wanted to see! While Megan met up with a friend in Sintra to explore one of the palaces (see previous post), I decided to head to the coast for the day. I caught the bus there and found out the buses only run every couple hours so I planned out the one I had to catch back to make it in time for dinner with Megan and her friend, Marion.

The coast was beautiful! I started at Azenhas do Mar and walked along the cliffs to Praia das Maçãs, where I just laid in the sun and relaxed for a bit before catching the bus home. In typical Portuguese fashion, it was late, and I barely made it back in time for dinner (this is when no wifi is especially hard and I can’t text to say I’ll be late). But I made it! (See Megan’s previous post for more dinner details)

kez
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Sintra, You Are Oh So Charming

To me, Sintra was a very alluring and quaint town. About a 45 minute train ride from Lisbon, we decided to spend three nights here while many tourists only take a day trip from Lisbon. Our hostel, Nice Way Sintra Palace was the perfect fit for this enchanting town, whose decor consisted of quirky photos and a whimsical backyard. As if we were in a fairy tale, our room was even called the “apple room”, whose bed frame consisted of branches and fake apples.

Sintra not only has natural beauty, but is surrounded by beautiful palaces and castles that could truly have been inspiration for any Disney movie. While we avoided the touristy Pena Palace and Moorish Castle, we were fortunate to still be in awe of them from a distance, as they were perched on hills overlooking the town.

I had the pleasure of having a personal guide through Sintra and met up with “Aunty” Marion, who has been greatly inspired by Sintra’s beauty and had decided to stay here for a month and explore her love of photography. Have a look at her work.

Marion knew all the spots to show me, and a day in Portugal can only start off with pastries. We went to this adorable cafe called Piriquita and then explored a few of the streets. Quinta da Regaleira was our next stop, and the garden was filled with grottos, statues amongst greenery, and the “Initiation Well” which meant a journey down into the darkness to explore each level. The palace’s timeline was interesting as well, and was actually built in the late 1800’s with the intention of having an architecture style that was centuries older. There was one particular floor with intricate tile work, but different than the other style we had seen throughout Portugal, that created shapes of animals and mythical creatures.

We then met up with Kezia and headed to Marion’s cottage for dinner, and if Sintra wasn’t charming enough, this cottage was the icing on the cake. Situated on one of the hills, it gave us the perfect view of the town and was a great ending to our evening.

meg

 

A Day Off from Churches and Cathedrals

Today was just what we needed. So chill and relaxing. Took things as they came and went with the flow all day.

Cascais was in the plans for today and so after breakfast we walked to the bus stop to wait for the hourly bus. Of course, there were stops on either side of the street, both with the number 403 bus we needed, but neither stated the final destination. We took a chance and picked a side to wait on, thinking we would just keep an eye out for either. Turns out we weren’t that good at paying attention and the bus we needed to get on passed us on the opposite side as we sat there and watched it go by, too late to do anything. We crossed the street to wait an hour for the next one. An extra 10 mins late, the bus finally pulled up and we jumped on. We had already realized something that this bus ride solidified even more… you have to a be a confident driver in Portugal. The speed they go and the way they rip around corners is a little daunting, especially with the size of streets they have here. We went down streets that looked like there was only enough width for one, but we had to pass cars, and seemingly barely squeezed through with the cars on one side and a stone wall on the other.

After arriving to Cascais, our first stop was a cafe, where we both bought our first Portuguese pastries! Next stop was a grocery store and then we headed south towards the water. As we walked through streets and I noticed the difference between here and Porto, with the stone and houses being much lighter. Instead of the dark stone and bright colours of Porto, the stones were much lighter and houses were painted white and light pastel colours.

We finally saw the ocean ahead and walked to the edge of the cliffs. We stayed there for lunch and soaked in the sun, enjoying the view. We went on our way, following the coastline until we came to the beach. It was really nice just lying in the sun relaxing. No plans, nowhere to be, nothing in particular to see.

After awhile we decided to walk to Boca do Inferno, back the way we had come. We didn’t realize, but it ended up being about a minute walk from where we started… just in the opposite direction! We got there and I was a little disappointed. It wasn’t as epic as I thought it would be after seeing photos, and it was just so sunny out which made for very contrasty, harsh light… not the best for photos. But then, just as we were about to go, we saw a pod of dolphins! They were too far away for me to catch a decent photo, but it was the coolest thing ever!

We walked back towards the beach we had come from to catch the nearby metro into Lisbon. After a last minute decision and hectic emailing, Megan headed back to Sintra while I stayed in Lisbon to meet up with a friend for dinner. After some bad timing with the buses and my phone dying, I finally made it to the hotel she was staying at, unsure if she even thought I was still coming or not. Thankfully it all worked out in the end! We went to her favourite pizza place nearby. Now I was starving at this point so anything probably would’ve tasted good but this pizza and the strawberry lemonade we got to accompany it was to die for! Amaaazing thin crust pizza! It was so great to be able to catch up with her- she is from Barcelona, we met in Vancouver, and here we were reuniting for dinner in Lisbon. So great!

kez

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Books & Bats

Today was our biggest travel day to date (except Vancouver to Barcelona of course) as we headed from Porto to Sintra. We had decided to spend a few hours in a city halfway through our travels called Coimbra, most well known for their university. After saying goodbye to our lovely Airbnb host Julieta, we made our way to our next destination.

We quickly found a cafe where we could sit outside and truly embrace the Portuguese culture. We were surrounded by locals, men were getting their shoes shined, a church was beside us in the square, and young adults, dressed in black capes and ties as if they’ve walked out of a Harry Potter film set, beside the church, singing and playing a variety of instruments. We then headed to the main attraction, the University. A few things we have learned about Portuguese towns is that not only is there absolutely no grid system to the streets, but these streets are hilly. Coimbra was no exception, with the University perched on top of the hill, overlooking the city.

Built in 1290, it is evident how old this university is and incredible that students still study here. While we were there on a Saturday, there wasn’t too much student life, but we explored a few of the buildings. The Biblioteca Joanina was the most intriguing, filled with elaborate paintings on the ceiling and thousands of books that were centuries old. Apparently, this library also has a colony of bats that come out at night and feast on any insects that would destroy the books. We were fortunate to have the guide working there let us take photos despite the no photography sign.

After that, there wasn’t much else to see in Coimbra, and the weather agreed. It began to pour and we even saw lighting in the distance, perfect timing to catch our train to Lisbon, with a connecting train to start our time in Sintra.

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When in Porto

Alongside the palaces and historical sights, we decided to take it chill for our last day in Porto. We were fortunate to stay at an Airbnb that was close to the beach, so we packed lightly that morning with nothing more than sunglasses, bathing suits, and our towels. We spent some time in the ocean, captivated by the waves and perfect temperature of the water, and then relaxed for a bit laying on the beach.

On our way to the city center, we stopped by the coffee shop we had visited the previous day to touch base with Raphael. He had recommended a place to get a great Francesinha (Porto’s legendary sandwich) the day before and we had forgotten the location. Kez and I had wanted to make sure we got the insider scoop for each city, so we decided to meet up later and get the true local experience.

We headed south of the city towards Taylor’s, a port wine house, where we were surrounded by gardens, peacocks, vintage cars, and of course, port wine almost as old as we are. For me, drinking the port was reminiscent of my great grandmother, Grammie V, who even at 100 years old, always enjoyed her glass of port. We then walked on the Ponte Luis I Bridge over the Douro River and met up with Raphael who showed us the Casa de Musica, whose sharp lines and geometric architecure stood out amongst Portugal’s regular houses. He then took us to a local spot, Cufra to get a Francesinha sandwich. I’m pretty sure the photos can speak for themselves.

meg

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Salta o Muro

I woke up and wandered into the dining room to two places set for breakfast. Placemat, plate, bowl, knife, 2 different spoons, and 2 different forks, all laid out perfectly. In the kitchen and assortment of food/ drink options were laid out: cereal, milk, bread, tea, coffee, hot chocolate mix, and next to that a tray with a teapot and a couple mugs. It was adorable! Julieta, our host was just so sweet! It was a pretty chill morning catching up on some photos and writing, and then we went to the store with Julieta to pick up a few groceries. The metro was a short walk from there and we caught it into the city center, and began wandering from there in no particular direction. I suggested stopping for a cup of coffee at some point so we walked into the next café we saw.

I had a caramel macchiato that was a little too sweet, but tasty. We just sat and sipped. I think one of my favourite parts of this trip and being on vacation in general is relaxing at different cafés and just people watching and chilling. Before we left, we chatted with Rahpael, the café owner, for a bit and he gave us some suggestions of what to do and a couple restaurants to eat at. I don’t want to bore you with all the details, but because of circumstances, we ended up returning to the cafe two more times, one right after another. By then we were buds with Raphael.

We finally left the café for good that day and made our way to a bookstore, Livraria Lello, which was an inspiration for JK Rowling’s Harry Potter series. We stopped at other beautiful buildings along the way and from down town we took the metro into Metosinhos, a neighboring fishing village, for a seafood dinner (our first traditional Portuguese meal) at Salta o Muro. The restaurant didn’t open till 7:15 and we got there a little early so we walked around for a bit and explored. We were the first ones at the restaurant, but by the time we left it was full and there was a line out the door. We both had the lemon sole; Megan with rice, and I with fried potatoes (aka French fries). The fries were a little soggy, but the fish was yummy. After dinner we followed the coastline home, with full tummies and sand between our toes.

kez

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I Thought I Was Getting Soup…

Our day started early, around 6:30am so we could leave for the airport at 7 to get there by 8 for our flight at 10. We both completely passed out on the flight and made it to Porto no problem in about an hour and a half. We had booked our stay in Porto through Airbnb and our host, Julieta, even said she could pick us up at the nearby metro station. Once we got back to her place and got settled, she pulled out a whole bunch of books and maps that she had put together on the city and went through everything with us: what to do and see, even what buses to take and had all the schedules for all those. She was so sweet and very helpful!

It was about a 20 minute walk to the beach from our temporary home and from there we followed the coast towards the city center, stopping for an overpriced lunch along the way. Sometimes meals seem like a decent price, but then I convert the euros to dollars in my head and realize I would never pay that much back home for what I’m getting. We also didn’t know what most of the menu said so I didn’t really know what I was actually ordering. I’m always up for anything though! For my appetizer, I thought I was getting soup…it wasn’t soup. We finished up and went on our way, wandering through beautiful streets of tiled houses. At every turn I fell a little more in love. We made our way back to the water, which had by then turned into the Douro river, and followed it to the city centre. All in all it was at least a couple hours of walking…with many photo stops along the way. By the time we got near the city centre the sun was getting lower and we explored the narrow streets, admiring all the cute buildings with colourful doors, wrought iron balcony railings, and laundry hanging out of windows. After the sun sank below the horizon, we headed back. Day one in Porto was already over.

kez

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Our first view of the Portuguese coast.
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That “soup” I thought I ordered…KLN_4773

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